Manufactum folding briefcase

The seams of the briefcase are open-edged processed, the leather edges with a very thin, circumferential Reifelstrich. This saddlery technique, which is hardly ever used anymore and involves a hot stroking iron - drawn freehand over the leather - to make the edges more resilient, can be recognized by a fine line where the leather has darkened due to the effect of the temperature. The briefcase handles are full grain leather, double wrapped and very neatly stitched, which makes a palpable difference in quality. The handle loops are riveted securely to the leather-trimmed metal strap attached to the inside of the briefcase. Fittings and clasps of the bags come from Italy. The locks are made of zamak, the clasps themselves are made of brass and each has a shiny nickel finish.

When it comes to our leather collection, you might recognise a sense of and attention to detail: from selecting the leather to setting the last seam. We have our small leather goods made unlined; therefore, they display the back of the leather, and you find all typical natural irregularities “honestly” recognisable. Plus, they come raw-edged. Originating from German cattle, mainly from southern German regions, the hides get their vegetable tanning in Germany – in slowly rotating oak barrels in a tanning broth with vegetable ingredients. Every addition has its specific effect on the tanned leather: mimosa, the bark tanning agent deriving from the black acacia, and quebracho wood provide suppleness, and the tanning agents of the sweet chestnut contribute to the leather’s beautiful reddish hue. Additionally, you find many articles available imbued in black.

The finishing, i.e. what subsequently happens to the leather that has become tanned in the barrel, makes a big difference to everything common today. To get rid of the brittleness typical for a 1.5-2 mm thick leather after tanning, you have to “soak” and grease it, a process resulting in supple and durable leathers. Since the middle of the 19th century, the ingredient of choice for greasing leather was animal tallow, the so-called tanner’s fat or “dégras”. Not to mention today’s inferior processes, we go back a stage further and resort to the means to which, according to connoisseurs, the legendary old Russia leather owes its reputation: fish oil and wood tar. In the rotating barrel, the ancient fatting agents cod oil and birch bark tar give the leather a lasting suppleness that will come to perfection over time, while the birch bark tar naturally impregnates the leather.